This is the start of my build for the Medway Longboat. There are two really special contemporary models in the NMM. This is a totally revamped and completely new longboat project with actually little in common with my earlier design for Model Shipways. It is based on an entirely different original draft and more closely resembles the contemporary models. In fact its almost identical as far as I can tell. It will be a true POF model with floors and top timbers. This model will be made from Alaskan Yellow Cedar with boxwood accents and molding. This model will be made both partially planked and fully planked eventually just like the two contemporary models. The fully planked version will show all rigging and also sails. Hopefully.
A little about the contemporary models shown below.
Scale 1:48. A contemporary full hull model of a ship's longboat, said to be from the 'Medway' (1742) (SLR0328), built plank on frame in the Navy Board style. The model is partially planked and equipped with a large windlass amidships for use when handling the anchors. It is mounted on its original veneered baseboard. Another model, SLR0330, shows the ‘Medway’ longboat rigged and fully planked. The longboat was generally the largest boat carried on board ship and could either be pulled or sailed. It was used for carrying personnel and stores as well as mooring and anchors work. When carried on board, the longboat was stowed in the waist between the fore and main masts lashed on the spare topmasts and spars. It was hoisted in and out by means of the large block and tackles rigged to the lower fore and main yards.
A contemporary full hull model of the 'Medway' (1742), shown below - 60-gun two-decker ship of the line
All parts whenever possible will be laser cut including the planking which will be pre-spiled. Below is the plan in progress as compared to the actual contemporary model. The model will be constructed entirely out of Alaskan Yellow Cedar wood with a few boxwood accents.
Below are the initial parts that make up the keel assembly. There will be a more simplified version of the keel assembly and another that is lightly more chalenging. As is done on the contemporary model, lap joints will be used to connect the stem and stern post to the keel. The simplified version will just utilize a butt joint and laser cut scarph joint to attach the stem to the keel. I have started building the simplified version first shown on top of the photo below.
Before removing the laser cut parts from the sheet, they were sanded down with 220 grit sandpaper on both sides to remove the char. Its easier to do while they are still contained in the sheet.
Then the three main (5/32" thick) parts that comprise the stem, the keel and stern post were assembled. I used yellow glue to assemble them prior to sanding the char from the edges of each piece. In fact I purposely didnt remove it from the joints...they are laser cut fairly precise and fit together very well. Using tite-bond works great and the joint is very strong as long as you let it fully dry. Once dry I sanded the char from all of the edges and prepared to add the other (3/32" thick) cedar parts that make up the keel assembly.
These were treated the same way. I didnt remove any char from the edges util after they were glued into position. They are very delicate and it is safer and easier to do after they are glued into position. These thinner pieces were centered along the keel leaving 1/32" on each side to form a rabbet or "lip" for the external planking.
Next up I added the transom...it has a laser etched groove down the inside to help position it properly. It helps a lot but I was also very careful to also square up the transom properly in relation to the keel.
Thats it for now....I have one last part to add to this stem assembly before I start assembling the frames. I will post that very soon.
Zitat von Gebbi im Beitrag #3Congratulations, Chuck! You managed to put in your build log and real fast. What a beauty this Meday of yours. And also the longboat, of course. Jörg
Egal wie leer du im Kopf bist, es gibt Menschen, die sind Lehrer!
Its been a while since my last post. I do try and check in as often as possible but production of kits and parts has been very demanding. Now that summer has arrived and things have slowed down, I have more time for the social aspect of the hobby.
I have since finished the model but thought to post some build photos. I hope there might be some interest.
The hull is all framed out and ready for planking.
The hull was finished up with only a few details remaining. the print out in the photo shows the contemporary model of this longboat which I based the project on.
Then it was time to start the simple rig. By the way, this entire model was made using Alaskan Yellow Cedar. It is a soft wood and bends easy. But it does hold a sharp edge.
To start the mast I made it using some square stock...first shaping it to an octagon and then rounding it off. The iron bands were added and sheaves were simulated as well.
At the base of the mast, it was painted red up to the band there. This band was made the same way but this time 3/32" wide tape was used. The eyebolt was made using 20 gauge brass wire blackened afterwards. I cant find pre-blackened 20 gauge wire. The mast isnt permanently stepped yet but the mast is now completed.
I also made the 7mm deadyes that we will need for the model. These are just like the kits I offer. Three layers are glued together.....then I remove most of the char from the outside. To finish them up I throw the in my block tumbler to soften and round off the edges. Not to long though...or they will get funky. These are boxwood and not cedar. The cedar is too soft to make these. You can see four deadeyes that were released from the spru with no sanding or laser char removal. The other group is ready to go but no finish has been applied yet.
I started rigging the boom by adding the topping lift first. I used .025 light brown line. It was seized to the outboard end of the boom. Then it was brought up to one of those blocks hooked to the mast. See below.
Almost done....just a little more rigging to go!!!
Really nice model, Chuck. I am looking forward to hold my kit in my hands.
Gruß Christian
in der Werft: Cutter Alert, 1777, HM Sloop Fly, 1776 - 1:36 auf dem Zeichenbrett: Cutter Alert, 1777, HM Sloop Fly, 1776, HM Fireship Comet, 1783, HM Boomb Vessel Aetna, 1777
Pause: HMS Triton, 1771 - 1:48
"Behandle jedes Bauteil, als ob es ein eigenes Modell ist; auf diese Weise wirst Du mehr Modelle an einem Tag als andere in ihrem Leben fertig stellen." "Habe keine Angst vor der Perfektion - Du wirst sie nie erreichen" Salvador Dali
Time to step the bowsprit. The bowsprit irons can be made many different ways. You can use brass for all the parts and do some soldering if you want. That is one method. I did use some brass but I also simplified the process so I wouldnt have to solder anything.
The photo below shows the two brass bars 1/16" x 1/16". The longer one was pretty simple. I just cut the strip to length after filing a pin in one end. You could also file this pin into both sides if you like. It will be blackened later before I add them to the model. The second smaller piece was the same. I filed a small pin into one side. BUT I also drilled a small hole through the other. This is for the little brass pin. I used a #66 drill bit. The trick is to use a light tough and let the bit cut through the brass. To much pressure and you will break the bit. Then I rounded off that end.
Both of these pieces need to be measured off your own model. They are shown on the plans but because there will be so many small differences you need to measure your own model for their length.
Finally...black tape was cut to 1/16" wide and wrapped around the bowsprit to simulate the iron rings. The brass strips will be pinned into these. Once blackened and with the use of some weathering powder you wont be able to tell they are two pieces or not metal. You could also use boxwood strips and just use some black wire for the pins. If you paint them black and weather them you wont be able to tell. Its up to you.
You must figure out exactly where the tape bands should be before you commit to gluing everything in position. Measure carefully.
Then drill a small hole in the bottom of the aft end of teh bowsprit. Make sure the sheave on the other end is facing the correct way first. That would be a big mistake.
You will need to drill a hole through the thwart for the larger brass strip with the pin facing up (unless you put a pin on both sides then it doesnt matter). But once again you must drill the hole in the right place. You only have one shot at this. Make sure you test the bowsprit in position and figure out where on the thwart you need to drill the hole. I used a #49 drill bit. Then I squared up the hole with a small needle file.
Once done you can see how convincing it looks. The pin was glued into the hole on the tape (simulated iron ring) on the end of the bowsprit. The bottom can be pinned into the platform or just glued into another hole through the platform. Its up to you.
Finally.....the small brass piece was glued into a hole drilled into the other iron strap (tape). Then a small brass pin was used to secure the other end through the stem as shown below. Make sure these are glued in good. You must carefully find the length for this brass piece because it determines the angle for the bowsprit. If the brass strip is too long or short then the bowsprit will not sit at the correct angle.
Fertig: um 1800 Armed Longboat 1:24 - Model Shipways Berlin, La Couronne, Schnittmodell Victory Irgendwann, wenns die modellbauerischen Fähigkeiten erlauben: La Jacinthe, Furttenbachs "Fulmen in Hostes"
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1742 Medway Longboat - 1:24 - Syren Ship Model Company
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30.10.2018 22:01 (zuletzt bearbeitet: 31.10.2018 08:35)
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